c/bricklayers

After laying 500 feet of block with a standard level, switching to a laser level cut my time in half on a job in Tacoma.

The laser kept everything plumb and level across the whole wall, so I wasn't constantly checking and adjusting every single block, which is why I think every mason should use one for long runs.

My foreman in Phoenix pointed out my mortar bed was too thick for a 12-inch block, and I'd been doing it that way for months.

He said it was causing my walls to settle unevenly. Do you always measure your bed joints, or do you go by feel?

Pro tip: a cheap laser level fixed my problem with long brick runs

I was laying a 40 foot garden wall last month and my line kept sagging in the middle, throwing the whole course off. Tried the old string and line block method but it just wasn't cutting it. Bought a $40 laser level from the hardware store as a last try, set it up on a tripod, and ran the beam along the top of my bricks. It was a total game changer, kept everything dead straight and saved me hours of rework. Has anyone else found a better fix for keeping long runs true without breaking the bank?

Heads up on the new 'fast set' mortar from that big box store

I used to mix my own from scratch for years, but grabbed a bag of that pre-mix stuff for a small patio job last week to save time. It set up way too fast in the heat, about 15 minutes, and I had to toss a whole batch, costing me an extra $40 and an hour of cleanup. Anyone else run into this with the newer quick-setting products?

I was laying a curved wall in Tacoma and my line snapped halfway through the third course.

Serious question, has anyone else had a brick saw blade just stop cutting halfway through a job?

Happened to me yesterday on a patio in Tacoma. My 14-inch diamond blade on the Stihl saw started making this high-pitched whine and wouldn't bite into the paver at all. I checked for binding, but the motor was fine. Ended up having to finish the cuts with a chisel and hammer, which added two hours. What's the usual life you get out of a blade before this happens?

Used to eyeball my mortar mix for a decade, then a guy in Boise asked me to write down the exact ratio.

I had to actually measure it out for the first time, and my usual 'looks about right' was off by almost a full shovel of sand. Now I keep a bucket marked for each part, which feels silly but the joints are way more consistent. Anyone else get forced into being precise by a picky client?

I always thought a 3/8 inch joint was fine for everything, but a chimney repair in Denver changed my mind.

I was repointing an old chimney last fall and used my usual 3/8 inch joint. The homeowner asked me to use a 1/2 inch instead, saying the old bricks were uneven. I argued but did it. The wider joint let me pack more mortar in and actually made the whole thing look straighter and stronger. Now I check brick size and condition before I even pick up my trowel. Anyone else adjust their joint size based on the brick, or do you stick with one size?

Can we talk about the right way to mix a small batch of mortar?

I keep seeing guys at the yard just dump a random amount of water into their mixer for a repair job. They end up with soup or a brick that won't stick. My foreman taught me to measure by volume: for a half bag of type S, you need exactly 2.5 quarts of clean water, mixed for a solid 5 minutes. It makes a huge difference in workability and final strength. Are you a strict measurer, or do you just go by feel until it looks right?

Vent: I fought a weirdly bowed foundation wall for three whole days before I caved and called a mason with a laser level.

What's your go-to method for checking a long wall for plumb when a standard level just isn't cutting it?

Just realized half the guys on my crew in Phoenix are still using a 3/8 inch joint for everything, even on exterior walls. I say you need a full 1/2 inch for proper drainage and frost resistance. What's your standard?

PSA: That weird bulge in a wall in Charlotte took me two full days to figure out

Was repointing a 1920s chimney and the mortar line kept bulging out after I fixed it. Turned out the original builders shoved a piece of scrap lead flashing behind the brick as a shim. Had to pull 15 bricks to get it out. Anyone ever find something that weird hidden in a wall?

Warning: My new laser level bricked itself on a 90 degree day

Was setting up a garden wall in Phoenix last week, temp hit 95. My brand new DeWalt laser level just shut off mid-job and wouldn't turn back on. Had to finish the whole run with a 4-foot level and string line, took me twice as long. Anyone know a laser that can actually handle some heat?

My new trowel snapped at the neck laying a foundation in Boise yesterday, so I had to finish the pour with a backup from my truck.

Has anyone else had a specific brand's tool fail under normal pressure, or is it just me getting a bad batch?

PSA: A trick for keeping your line level on a long wall with a slight slope

I was laying a 40 foot garden wall in my buddy's yard last month and the ground had a gentle slope, maybe an inch drop over the whole run. I kept fighting to keep my line level from sliding down and messing up my course. I tried taping it, but the tape gunked up the line. Then I remembered an old timer saying to use a small zip tie. I put a tiny zip tie on the line right where I wanted the level to sit, pulled it tight so it was just a little bump. The level's hook catches on that bump and won't slide past it. It worked perfectly for the whole job and saved me a ton of fussing. I mean, it's such a simple fix but I'd never thought of it before. Has anyone else got a better trick for this kind of thing?

Saw a brick wall in Savannah with the weirdest pattern I've ever seen

It was on a house near Forsyth Park, looked like someone tried a herringbone but gave up halfway and just started stacking them sideways. The mortar lines were all over the place, like a 2 inch gap in one spot and nothing in the next. Has anyone else run into a historic repair that just makes you scratch your head?

Warning: I thought using a laser level for a simple garden wall was overkill

My buddy kept pushing me to try one on a small job last month, a 20-foot curved wall for a client in Tacoma. I finally borrowed his DeWalt laser level and set it up, thinking it would just save a few minutes. But laying every course with that red line showing exactly where the brick should go? It cut my time in half and the curve came out way smoother than my old string line method. Anyone else have a tool they thought was just a gimmick that turned out to be a game changer?

Finally got my line and level right on a big garden wall

For the last two weeks, I was building a 4-foot wall for a client in Oak Park. Every day, my line was just a little off, maybe a quarter inch over 20 feet. Yesterday, I slowed way down, checked every third brick with my 4-foot level, and re-set my pins twice. The last 10 feet went up perfect and straight. How do you guys keep a long run dead on?

The great brick line debate: string versus laser

Last week on a garden wall job, my partner insisted on using our old chalk line, while I set up my new laser level. After three courses, his line sagged in the middle from the humidity, and we had a noticeable dip. The laser kept everything dead straight, and we saved at least an hour not having to snap a new line every course. Anyone else make the switch and never look back?

PSA: I was laying bricks with the wrong trowel angle for years

Honestly, I was on a job in Phoenix last summer and this old timer watched me for about five minutes. He just said, 'Kid, you're fighting the mud, not moving it.' He showed me how to hold my trowel at a flatter angle, almost parallel to the brick, when buttering the end. Ngl, it cut my effort in half and my joints are way tighter now. Anyone else have a simple trick that made a huge difference?

Warning: That new rapid-set mortar is no joke in hot weather

I was laying a small patio in Phoenix last Tuesday, temperature hit 105. Mixed a bag of that 'Fast-Set Pro' stuff for a section. It started going off in the bucket before I could even spread half of it, turned into a solid rock. Had to chip it out and lost a full $18 bag. Now I only mix tiny batches if it's over 90 degrees. Anyone got a good summer mix they like for high heat?

Tried using a new polymer mortar mix on a retaining wall job in Spokane last month. The stuff set up WAY too fast in the sun, had to throw out a whole bag.

Talked to a mason from Boston who said he never uses a line level for chimneys over 15 feet, just a plumb bob and a good eye.

He told me, 'A level can lie in the wind, but gravity never does,' and after my last chimney repair in a stiff breeze, I finally get it.

Had to pick between a 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch joint for a big fireplace job in Denver.

The homeowner wanted a rustic look, so I went with the wider 1/2 inch joint, but now the mortar is cracking in a few spots after the first freeze. Anyone know a better mix for wide joints in cold weather?

My old foreman in Detroit told me to always use a 3/8 inch joint for brick veneer.

He said it was stronger and looked better. I argued for a half inch for years, thought it was faster. Saw a wall I did back then last week, half inch joints are all cracked. Anyone else stick to a specific joint size for veneer work?