Wait, did you check if the hood was actually cut for a helmet? I bought a "waterproof" jacket once, spent a whole day in the Smokies with the hood up and still got a wet neck. Turns out the hood was just a floppy dishrag that flapped away in the wind. Now I only buy jackets with a stiff brim and a drawcord that actually tightens down. That cheap thing was basically a wet sock on my head.

That farm supply tip is a good one. I'm curious though, are you finding the marine grade stuff holds up better against rust than the standard zinc plated hardware from the big box stores? I've been burned by those cheaper ones getting crusty after just one season of sitting in a damp garage. It seems like the farm supply places get better quality batches of things like hinges and spring pins that just last longer.

Wait, is that actually working for you @oscarcooper? I tried it after Frank's advice but got mixed results. I think the trick is knowing what to look for, which comes with experience, not just staring at boards hoping something pops out.

Oh man, I'm with Carla on this one. "Project Hail Mary" had a weak ending that just didn't stick the landing. After all that build up with the ship science and the survival stuff, leaving it all open like that felt lazy. I wanted to know if they actually made it back or what happened next, not some vague "maybe they did, maybe they didn't" situation. Carla's right to push back on that. Good endings give you closure, not more questions.

Mary, I get what you're saying about not overthinking a bleeder screw. But I had a similar situation on my old truck where I figured it would be fine with just a quick spray and a few minutes. Ended up snapping the head clean off. Took me an afternoon to drill it out and chase the threads. Now I always give it a decent soak, like a good 20 minutes, and use a six-point socket instead of a twelve-point. It's saved me a lot of headaches since then.